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La crativit des manufactures est sans limite. Mais celle des consumers l’est aussi. A une poque o les sries n’taient pas nes, jusqu’au dbut du XXme sicle, l’industrie horlogre n’existait que par la ralisation de pices con ues la demande.
Progressivement, la tendance s’est inverse, et le sur-mesure s’est rarfi. En 1908, Henry Ford construit sa Model T sur le modle industriel qui portera son nom, et la plupart des productions lui embo trent le pas, horlogerie comprise.
Qui furthermore est, les principaux demandeurs de sur-mesure sont, en ce dbut de sicle, en voie de disparition, notamment les familles royales autrefois fort amateurs de pices de haute horlogerie uniques. Enfin, moreover proche de nous, l’arrive du quartz a touff, pendant 25 ans, toute doable renaissance de ce secteur.
Le sur-mesure n’est donc de retour que depuis peu, 15 ans tout au additionally. Il a toutefois d affronter un nouvel ennemi, et pas des moindres : la Rentabilit. Confortablement installe dans les moeurs, la Rentabilit avait progressivement cart toute forme d’art pour l’art. Elle se croyait inamovible. Mais certains en ont dcid autrement.
Une histoire d’hommes
Villeret, Vacheron Constantin et d’autres ont dcid qu’il fallait que cette obsession du chiffre cesse. “C’est un retour aux fondamentaux”, explique Dominique Bernaz, Directeur du Retail, Vacheron Constantin. “Nous n’avons fait quasiment que du sur mesure pendant un sicle, entre 1755 et 1850. Ce sont toutes ces demandes spciales qui nous ont permis de nous lever.”
Dans les faits, le renouveau de ces montres sur-mesure a t rendu probable chez Vacheron Constantin gr ce la volont de Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO, de disposer d’un dpartement ddi cet effet, l’Atelier Les Cabinotiers. que dirige Dominique Bernaz. Six personnes le composent, 4 artisans, un support et un chef de projet, pour environ forty 50 pices par an. Toutes ne sont pas du pur sur-mesure : 90% font l’objet d’une personnalisation, et seules four 5 pices par an bnficient d’un travail de fond sur le mouvement. Avec de tels flux, la Manufacture est au utmost de ses capacits. “Au del, le dlai de ralisation serait trop significant pour nos customers. Nous prfrons donc plut t refuser certaines demandes.”
Dtail du mouvement d’une pice sur-mesure de Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin Chez Vacheron Constantin, suivant le degr de complication de la pice, il faut un deux ans pour voir aboutir un projet. Mais pour un dveloppement de mouvement unique, comptez6 ans. Il se dit qu’un magnat europen aurait d’ailleurs dpens 6,5 millions USD pour une pice techniquement au-del de la fameuse Tour de l’Ile de la maison
Cette parcimonie est partage par Alexander Schmiedt, Directeur de la Division Montres, Montblanc (qui inclut la manufacture Villeret, en charge de toutes les pices uniques de haute horlogerie). Son volume : 250 pices par an, mais dont une infime partie sont des pices uniques. “Les conditions pour pouvoir tenir ce genre de pari, c’est d’abord d’tre totalement intgr, ensuite d’avoir un appareil de production distinct de la production de srie, reprsente chez nous par les Montblanc et ses 100.000 pices annuelles au Locle. Enfin, c’est d’avoir une quipe ddie, avec chez nous 2 ingnieurs qui passent 50% de leur temps sur les pices uniques”.
Alexander Schmiedt, Director Category Management replica watches, Montblanc Montblanc
En sur-mesure, tout est feasible
“Il n’y a pas de limites la customisation d’un produit existant, comme il n’y a pas de limites la crativit”, nous confie Christophe Claret. Villeret et Vacheron Constantin restent cependant unanimes : “Le produit final doit tre un produit de marque”, souligne Dominique Bernaz chez Vacheron Constantin. Alexander Schmiedt confirme chez Montblanc : “Nous refusons par exemple toutes les montres connotation politique ou religieuse”.
Le profil client, quand lui n’existe pas. Il faut dire que sur ces volumes de production ultra-confidentiels, il est impossible d’tablir un profil type reprsentatif. Tout au in addition, une tendance vers l’est, avec les ex-pays du bloc communiste, voire la Chine. Mais Dominique Bernaz tempre : “le client asiatique n’aime pas attendre, tout au additionally 3 mois. Mais on ne peut pas dlivrer un vritable produit sur-mesure en moins de 18 mois, c’est impossible. Le moreover souvent, il passe donc son chemin”.
Projet d’une pice sur-mesure par Montblanc Montblanc
Et les indpendants
Tout l’enjeu industriel d’une pice sur-mesure est d’arriver la produire sans (trop) drgler les cycles de production des pices en srie. Une contrainte qui, logiquement, ne se pose donc pas pour les artisans indpendants. “Certes, mais moins de la facturer un prix astronomique, ce n’est pas rentable, car la dmarche crative est exactement la mme que pour une srie, avec la mise en uvre, les dessins, les plansmais pour une seule pice !”, souligne Ludovic Ballouard, horloger indpendant.
Christophe Claret abonde dans le mme sens : “La nomenclature d’une pice est un travail trs critical, et avec 350 mouvements produits par an, dots de 500 pices chacun, nous pouvons difficilement nous permettre de raliser un mme travail pour une pice unique”. Et de poursuivre en faisant le parallle avec d’autres mtiers d’artisanat : “Quand Vuitton fait une malle sur-mesure, ce sont deux, trois ou utmost quatre corps de mtiers qui interviennent. De notre c t, c’est tout de suite une vingtaine. C’est beaucoup moreover compliqu mettre en uvre”.
Certains ont donc tent de concilier l’inconciliable, et de produire, en srie, des picessur mesure. Impossible Non, rpond Mika l Bourgeois. A 32 ans, cet homme de l’ombre des grandes manufactures suisse a dcid de se mettre son compte et de fonder son business design uniquement sur le sur-mesure. D’autres marque comme Golay-Spierer se sont lances sur le mme modle. Dans les deux cas, les tarifs sont aux antipodes de ce que peut proposer une manufacture pour le mme travail : partir de 4500 euros pour une Golay-Spierer, et de 12.000 euros pour une Bourgeois. Pour un tel tarif, ces artisans r-utilisent pour la plupart des mouvements anciens, ensuite personnaliss.
Pice sur-mesure par Mika l Bourgeois MB replica watches
A l’instar de Montblanc, le duo Golay-Spierer propose un accs un site web personnel qui permet de suivre en direct l’volution de son projet, comme ici. Montblanc va toutefois un cran plus loin, en offrant son client la possibilit de se connecter via webcam l’artisan de son projet pour le voir l’ uvre en direct !
Le sur mesure est de retour dans ce sicle, mais reste l’apanage de manufactures totalement intgres ou d’indpendants ayant le go t du risque. Dans les deux cas, ils se comptent sur les doigts des deux mains.
Ils tmoignent nanmoins d’un certaine vitalit du march. Qui moreover est, le sur-mesure bnficie l’ensemble de la branche, puisque nombre de dveloppements effectus pour le compte de pices sur-mesure finissent t t ou tard trouver une application dans les sries grand public. Un domaine surveiller de prs, en somme.
We not too long ago featured an unique hands-on examine the brand new for 2013 Jaeger-LeCoultre Grasp Ultra-Thin Perpetual calendar look at. We have been energized each via the selling price and aesthetics of that hot and slim perpetual calendar with its typical design. That check out represented one particular of your three pillars which we consider to be the strengths of Jaeger-LeCoultre like a brand. Another two pillars are sport replica watches, and wildly sophisticated replica watches (that will either be sport or classically intended items). Though I have a good deal of love for just a Reverso or Master selection piece, my own personalized tastes draw me a great deal nearer to Jaeger’s activity replica watches this sort of as this new Cermet variation of your Deep Sea Chronograph.
What exactly is cermet It is what it looks like – an alloy substance that is part ceramic and section metal. Cermet was originally delivered to my attention by Audemars Piguet, who a number of decades in the past began to experiment while using the product on bezels of some Royal Oak Offshore replica watches. In keeping with Jaeger-LeCoultre, the cermet employed on this replica watch is usually a “material consisting of aluminum bolstered with particles of ceramic and afterwards covered using a protective coating of ceramics, has incomparable attributes of lightness, resistance, and stability.”
Truthful ample. So cermet is lighter than most steel and ceramic elements, but has the strength and scratch resistance of ceramic. Seemingly it truly is also a lot lighter than titanium. In addition it would seem not to have the shattering houses that ceramic can encounter on large affect. I’ve witnessed really polished cermet, but on this Deep Sea Chronograph replica watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for just a far more matte complete. To be a activity check out content, cermet seems like a superb method to go, whilst you will find other fantastic components (that is just one of them).
A single factor I am undecided of, and sort of forgot to clarify with Jaeger-LeCoultre, was whether or not the complete observe scenario is cermet. I believe the black-colored items are, but while you can tell, the Deep Sea Chronograph scenario contains a sort of sandwich development while using the dim gray/black sections involving among lighter titanium coloured sections. My understanding is that these sections can also be perhaps cermet given that the product is usually generated to look like metal – but these sections might also be “merely” titanium. In almost any function, over the wrist the Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet does really feel light-weight but long lasting. Some will enjoy the bi-color case design, and other people will little question prefer a more strong colour to your scenario. Jaeger-LeCoultre provides a selection of Deep Sea replica watches of equally models.
For me, this was my best check out decide on for the 2013 SIHH exhibit at Jaeger-LeCoultre. No, it wasn’t one of the most technically modern or remarkable replica watch, however it was on the short list of timepieces that in my opinion are attractive in addition to include a price that is inside the realm of accessibility. I’m able to lust following a Gyrotourbillon 3 for years but that won’t carry me (plus the majority of other replica watch enthusiasts) any nearer to having the ability to afford to pay for it. Pieces such as Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet, along with other versions have that Jaeger-LeCoultre status, in-house created movements, plus a price tag that’s a thing we could conceivably help you save up for, and that is why I get a lot more enthusiastic about parts like this.
2012 also had a Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph look at, plus the 2013 variation has some small improvements. The motion may be the very same, though the cermet situation development and measurement are diverse. Very last year’s Deep Sea Chronograph replica watch was 42mm wide and also the 2013 Cermet edition is 44mm large. I individually desire the larger dimensions, but I’m sure lots of people who want smaller sized 40 or 42mm sport replica watches. 44mm is an efficient measurement providing a modern appear with the retro-styling that the Deep Sea Chronograph is known for. As a diver, it’s not extremely deep diving, but significantly of which has to try and do with it having a chronograph function – so h2o resistance is a hundred meters.
The good looking case feels modern specified the material. As I reported inside the online video element of this article, I do think Jaeger-LeCoultre hit on the genuine sweet spot amongst old and new within this timepiece. As being a diver, in addition, you use a rotating bezel in addition to a attractive textile strap. The dial is properly legible, and presents that sort of desirable minimalist structure the thing is in a few of the additional well-liked retro-style dials. Little touches add all of the course you hope from JLC these kinds of as recessed chronograph subdials, used hour markers, as well as a wonderful texture towards the face.
Jaeger-LeCoultre will basically create two dial variations of the Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet. There’ll be the common Ref. 208A570 with the white coloured luminant, as well as the Ref. 208A57J that features a darker coloured lume. This latter model is technically known as the Deep Sea Chronograph Vintage Cermet, named as a result since old dive replica watches are likely to own lume that discolors after a while. Another important difference is that the Vintage model will only be available for buy at Jaeger-LeCoultre mono-brand boutique outlets.
Within the Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet replica watches are in-house made Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 758 automatic actions. The 758 is often a sweet column-wheel dependent chronograph by using a 65 hour energy reserve as well as a special “chronograph function” indicator. My only grievance is JLC determined to not incorporate a day window on the dial. The chronograph function indicator requires the form of the tiny round window in excess of where the hour and moment hands meet. The window reveals both all white, fifty percent white and 50 percent pink, or all red. These different displays point out regardless of whether the chronograph is stopped, paused, or running. It isn’t the most practical attribute in the world, however it is neat. As well as the notion driving it is to permit for divers in murky h2o (who without doubt is going to be relying only on their pricey Swiss Jaeger-LeCoultre luxurious enjoy) to easily figure out at a look exactly what is likely on with their chronograph. However I am not sure whether or not Jaeger-LeCoultre even suggests that utilizing the chronograph underwater is Okay. Believe of it as an historic throwback complication. More than enough reported, revenue is presently within the desk.
As I hold hinting, my experience is always that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s greatest held techniques are typically their sport replica watches. No matter if they may be retro-inspired much like the Deep Sea Chronograph, or present day such as Excessive Lab two or AMVOX collection, these are well created, interesting, and positively include a powerful worth provided all of that Jaeger-LeCoultre does in-house. On that observe, the cost for both equally the Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet, and Deep Sea Chronograph Classic Cermet is $18,000. jaeger-lecoultre.com
Even though sometimes what your eyes tell you could also be deceptive, most of time, people would like to believe the saying that: seeing is believing. It is difficult to define the quality of a replica watch until you see it. Rolex replica Watches and other designer ones are famous for their superior quality, excellent performance and wonderful design. Therefore, these replica Watches all come with astronomical prices which are only affordable for only the wealthy among us.
The replica Rolex Oyster Day-Date replica watch is perhaps the superme pride and joy of the Rolex collection-a truly surprising watch. This item is a model of perfection-and has a long,designer bags, rich history of stunning performance. In 1927, Mercedes Gleitze,DOFUS KAMAS, the first British woman to swim the English Channel took a gold Oyster replica watch around her neck.
After her historical swim, the timepiece was found to be in thoroughly perfect condition-it was dry inside, beating away, and kept perfect time. 1927 is when the Oyster started rising to its fame-and has been one of the most fashionable replica watch lines of the brand for nearly 100 years. Rolex Oysters also have their place in global history-in 1943; Corporal Clive James Nutting ordered a replica watch while he was still a prisoner of war in Stalag Luft III. The replica watch was actually applied in “The Great Escape” as a chronograph-to time the patrols of prison guards to forge a grand escape.
By ordering one of your own replica Rolex Oyster Day-Date replica watch models, you’ll be receiving a charming, tasteful replica watch that is water resistant up to 100 meters (330 feet) and has self winding movement. It has a weekday display which has an option of 26 different languages to choose from. Our fine replica replica Watches also come with serial numbers, and come in a multiple of colors and styles.
The replica Rolex Oyster Day-Date replica watch modle is a design that has been etched in the sands of history, and is possibly one of the most perfect replica watch series of replica replica Watches that have ever been created. No matter you’re dressing to impress a client, a lover, the boys in the country club, or that jerk Robert, who always tries to one up you at your son’s tee ball games-the item on your wrist always reigns supreme. The wonderful creation can also make you be the very center of the eyes and you can surely obtain many envious glances.
For the ones who are searching for some excellent replica Watches that can be their functional accompanies in their diving under the sea, the replica watch here is going to review could catch their eyes.
Face time with the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase replica watch comes with the good results from the superhero dive timepiece with a moonphase indicator from one of the edgiest upcoming brands out there nowadays. For detailed specifications on the design you can refer to my seminal article on the Oktopus Moonphase here. The item is water resistant to 888 meters and is the chunkiest of the Linde Werdelin line (non moonphase Oktopus replica watch models are water resistant to 1,111 meters). It comes with larger-than-life hands, and a grippy rotating diver’s bezel. Unique is an intriguing moonphase indicator that employs newsprint style images of the moon on a moving disc. The complexities are potentially quite functional as well, given the need for divers to pay attention to the tides, and the moon’s influence over the tides.
The replica watch is made from titanium and rose gold – that is applied for the bezel, highly refined hands, and hour indicators. It’s really a good looking dial that is easy to read. Gold usually combines nicely with titanium. The replica watch matches well through the special alligator strap. Inside the replica watch is a Frederic Piguet (ETA is the parent company) high-end automatic movement that is completed and embellished by the well recognized replica watch maker Svend Andersen. Price for the Linde Wedelin Oktopus Moonphase replica watch model is 21,700, and it will be part of a limited edition of just 29 pieces.
This replica watch can be, undoubtedly, a very wonderful instrument for the diver to take. For the limited edition, there is only few people can be the lucky owners of them.
Bearing an exceptionally beautiful combination of fashion style & advanced technology, the Timex outdoor replica watch collection offers you finely with the timepiece that you just need to enrich and shine your lifestyle.
This season, Timex releases the E-instruments series, a collection of top functionality replica Watches such as the E-compass, E-chrono, Ana-digis and the like that are created to perform to the highest level in the outdoor environment.
Expedition Chronograph design that assembled with INDIGLO Night Alarm and Easy Set Alarm are as follows 4 hour chronograph caculates 1/20th second, seconds, minutes, easy set alarm, easy time zone change, INDIGLO night -light, quick-date feature, stainless steel case, adjustable stainless steel bracelet or water resistant leather strap, water resistant 100 metres.
TIMEX replica Watches Limited declared the releasing of its NEW delicate collection of Ladies replica Watches inspired by the optimal luxury and style.
The NEW collection provides a wide range of bold case-shapes such as ovals, tanks, rectangles and tonneaus, the collection is united in its fashionable styling that’s backed by nobility and sophistication.
An extraordinary combination of style and technology, the E-Instruments collection offers you with the just item that you need to enhance your outdoor lifestyle.
These brand-new replica Watches series of Expedition timepieces come from Timex are quite functional replica Watches that crafted to perform to the most excellent level in the outdoor environment. If you are looking for a desirable replica watch that could be well employed in your outdoor activities, this replica watch design can be your very good choice.
Since the replica watch making industry all over the world is large and internationally booming, people who are replica watch conscious are always focusing on some news from the field. The news here could be a huge deal for the replica watch industry. About two years ago the Swatch Group declared that its replica watch movement making division ETA would stop supplying replica watch movements to replica watch making companies who are outside of the Swatch Group brands in 2014. ETA is the largest and most fashionable replica watch movement maker in all of Switzerland – offering movements to most Swiss replica watch brands and anyone else who applies Swiss movements. ETA creates a wide range of movements from high end mechanical movements to quartz movements.
Swatch Group brands include many well known replica watch companies such as Swatch, Hamilton, Tissot, and Omega. These big replica watch brands receive their movements from sister company ETA, while ETA also presently sells movements to outside brands. According to the statement of Chairman Nicolas Hayek of the replica watch group, that is all about to change. He is reclaiming Swatch Group’s position that ETA will stop providing movements to competitors. The wisdom of this decision is arguable; however, it looks like it is going to happen.
ETA has been under investigation right now by Swiss government authorities on whether this move is illegal and anti-monopolistic. Investigations have been launched in the past as well to verify whether or not ETA was engaging in unfair pricing and relative charges. The current probe is probably interested in whether such practices of shutting out Swiss replica watch brands that are imperative to the Swiss economy is a legal step by the Swatch Group.
A important question emerges of where these replica watch brands will now go to get Swiss replica watch movements, or any movements for that matter. The move could spell death for most of brands who rely on ETA to create “Swiss Made” replica Watches. In fact, it will possibly spell death for many brands. At the same time it is a golden opportunity for many component competitors to come in and offer replica watch movements. While the creation of the small parts for movements is highly elegant, ETA does have Swiss competitors. Companies such as Sellita and Ronda may instantly step in ETA’s shoes to fill this gap.
Most of ETA’s high volume movements are not contained under intellectual property rights any longer. Such patent rights only have limited times of protection until their contained technologies can be created by anyone with the skill. As such, ETA movements such as the 2824-2 have been “copied” by some replica watch brands such as Sellita (with their SW200 movement) for a while. Plus, some replica watch brands might turn to the Japanese who have been creating quality movements for years. While Japanese movements don’t have the same exceptinal power to entertain consumers that “Swiss Made” movements do, we may see replica watch companies turning to them out of utter need.
Sometime in 2014 ETA will stop or begin to stop offering replica watch movements to outside Swatch Group brands and the replica watch market will have to adjust. As a stander-by in the whole industry, except for knowing and doing some judgment of the news and the happening, what we can do is to wait until that time to see what the resulting replica watch industry will reflect to this.
The famous replica watch brand ALPINA Geneve has made a great success in the past year and it never stops its endeavor from presenting many more excellent replica Watches to the world. Following the great success of its first Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture – the Full Black model – at Baselworld in 2014, ALPINA Geneve is proud to introduce two brand-new designs in gold, both released in an extremely limited editions of just 18 numbered pieces.
These new models, both as stunning as the first, come with a “Full Black” dial and a caliber consisting of 188 parts, fitted with a Silicium Escapement Wheel and the newest development: a Silicium lever.
After three years of Research and Development, the professionals at ALPINA Geneve, Swiss manufacturer of top quality sports timepieces, were ready to display the refreshing, inhouse automatic Manufacture Tourbillon Regulator movement. A team of specialists, designers, engineers and watchmakers worked shoulder by shoulder to revive ALPINA as a true Manufacture. Supported by the newest in high-precision device and driven by a passion for creation.
Based on the award-winning Manufacture Regulator caliber, ALPINA Geneve advanced its own Manufactured Tourbillon Regulator: the AL-980, utterly crafted within its workshops in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. An exceptional movement that shows off several specific, creative features: Silicium Escapement Wheel and Silicium lever, Smart Weight Balancing
When some big news released and being widespread, the eyes could always be caught and the passions are stirred. The U-Boat replica watch stands out stunningly just out of this reason. Hot off the press, as the saying goes, is news of a World first from U-Boat.
U-Boat have just released the World’s first Black Titanium watch, pictured here to the left.
This U-Boat replica watch is the newest addition to the Classico collection of replica watch designs. U-Boat replica Watches, just like their original namesake, are bold, aggressive and gigantic, and this particulal edition is 52 mm and weighs in at only 179g.
This design is waterproof to a depth of 200m. As a result, the exhibition glass that usually displays the whole movement has been reduced in size here to minimize the surface over which high pressure has an effect. The smaller exhibition glass indicates that the focus is on the balance wheel.
The replica watch has an amazingly light case-build that covers a Valjoux movement and a power reserve of 44 hours at 28,800 alternations per hour.
This truly stunning replica watch is limited to 200 pieces, and one is available exceptionally to a Jura replica Watches customer today. If you are not fast enough, you will have to pick up anotherU-Boat watch, there are many to choose from. If you are interested in this wonderful watch, for the limited edition, you must be hurry up to see if you could become the lucky one among the long queue of replica watch faddists.
meticulously some special replica watch model to celebrate their anniversaries. A novel Baselworld and a new limited edition Omega Speedmaster Professional replica watch right? Like clockwork… This year the model is known as the Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo-Soyuz 35th Anniversary Watch, and is meant to celebrate the 1975 releasing of the Apollo-Soyuz spacecraft – an historical mission for its collaboration between the US and the then USSR. This was also the final mission with a space shuttle boasting the “Apollo” name. It is remembered as the first international space flight. In remembrance of this event, the timepiece will be limited to just 1975 pieces with a particularly engraved caseback. The replica watch will also feature a particular dial done in meteorite – probably the best feature of the watch. Personally, I like meteorite timepieces, and it has always looked pretty darn good on the Speedmaster Professional. You can see that the meteorite has been given two colors, a lighter tone for the subsidiary dials. Otherwise, the replica watch pretty much keeps the same. The model is crafted with the same steel replica watch case and manually wound mechanical chronograph movement.
With all this focus on maintaining the heritage of the moon landing and space shuttle events, I think that the Swatch Group (parent company of Omega), should step in and try to save NASA, from a short-sighted US Government that is contemplating the closure of the quite important US treasure. A lot of hearings on behalf of NASA would help at least. That would be an event worth watching CSPAN for. This new replica watch model, as the very gift the brand offers to its 35th Anniversary, bears and shows off fully the brand’s respect to this big day. And for the design itself, there are also many valuable features for the lovers and collectors to admire.